Culinary Capers
by Fannie P. Hernandez
The Panama Canal Review - November 1969
Panama's cooking has been influenced over the
centuries by the people of many nations. The Spanish settlers, the Negro slaves, the
French, Italians, Chinese, Hindu, and since Canal construction days, the Yankees, have
left on the Isthmus vestiges of their cultures and their kitchens.
The culinary habits of Panama have been shaped by the fruits, vegetables, and herbs native
to the country, the abundance of fish, and local animals and fowl.
The even, tropical temperature permists a large number of fruits and vegetables to be
available throughout the year in Panama markets and at stalls along the roadside in the
Interior. Meat and fowl are plentiful all year.
Down through the years, Panama has developed its own "cuisine" replete with
delicious dishes that are appetizing and distinct. Seasoning is the secret in
Panama's kitchens just as it has been since primitive cooks added a bit of this and that
to enhance the flavor or texture of the daily nourishment. Two flavoring agents work
near miracles in Panamanian cookery, the "recao verde," and achiote.
The mere aroma of "recao verde," which fills the air with a sweet pungent
bouquet, lifts ordinary food into the realm of epicurean pleasure. "Recao
verde" is a combination of herbs - sweet basil, cilantro, parsley, and thyme,
chopped onion, tomatoes, green pepper, and crushed garlic cooked in a little oil or
butter. It makes the difference when added to sauces, stews, meats, fish, fowl and
vegetables. Achiote, the brownish-red seeds found in the market and cooked in a
spoonful of lard, adds the magic of color and mild flavor much like that imparted by
paprika and saffron.
A menu for a special holiday dinner in Panama may include hors d'oeuvres of sweet sausages
cooked in Malago wine, pejibaye -the red or yellow fruit that grows in clusters on a palm
tree- or the favorite of favorites, seviche. There may be a roast turkey or arroz
con pollo, tamales steamed in tender banana leaves, baked plantain, mashed yucca and a
dessert of "glory soup" or "flan."
SWEET SAUSAGES
Ingredients:
1 lb. lean pork 1 clove garlic 2 small onions 1 cup Malaga wine 1/4 tsp. allspice 1/4 tsp. black pepper 3/4 cup water |
1 small bunch parsley 1 tsp. salt 3/4 tsp. nutmeg 1/4 tsp. cinnamon 3/4 cups brown sugar 2 cloves 1 stick cinnamon |
Directions:
Grind the pork with the garlic, onions, sprig of parsley, and powdered condiments and one
tablespoon of wine. Mix well and let stand for 2 hours. Take a level teaspoon
of the mixture and roll into balls the size of a marble. In a heavy frying pan place
the water, stick of cinnamon, cloves, and brown sugar. When this boils, drop in the
meatballs and add the wine. Cook slowly, stirring often until the meatballs have
absorbed the liquid and are dark brown. Remove and insert toothpicks. Spear a
little parsley through the toothpick first to give it that gourmet touch.
BOCAS
Directions:
To prepare the "bocas" (as hors d'oeuvres are called in Panama) of pejibaye,
boil them in salted water for half an hour and peel. Cut in half, discard the pit
and fill the cavity with mayonnaise or butter. The nutty flavored fruit which is available
from September to December, has the meaty taste of sweet potatoes or chestnuts and a
slight flavor of peanuts. It is especially good as a snack with cold drinks.
TURKEY |
On occasions such as Christmas and New
Year's -- For a culinary adventure and a tasty treat, try this Panamanian-style
dressing for the Thanksgiving turkey. The following recipe should be sufficient to
stuff a 14 pound bird.
Ingredients:
2 1/2 lbs. fresh lean pork, cut in pieces
1 chopped onion
1 chopped tomato
1 tsp oregano
culantro, a few leaves
1tsp soy sauce
1 tsp Worcesershire sauce
1 tsp vinegar
salt and pepper to taste
Directions:
Mix all the ingredients and place in refrigerator for about 4 hours. Then cook over medium
hear until the meat is tender. When cool put through a meat grinder and add:
1 cup raisins
12 olives
4 hard cooked eggs, chopped
2 tsp capers and 2 tbsp juice from capers
Mix well and stuff turkey and roast according to usual method.